The Moment of Truth

The sweater is done, but not blocked. I worried at first that I did not get the measurements right for the armpits because, as you’ll see in the photos, the cabling goes down further under the arms in the new sweater than in the old one. This may be because I guessed at the wrong row for where the cabling started, or that I counted incorrectly for the shoulder of the sleeve. The sleeves are also a little longer than they should be, but that is easily fixed by turning the cuffs.

For the entire project, I measured the yarn gauge and tried to copy stitch counts. The only place it feels off is at the armpits, the trickiest spot of any shirt, but at least it’s not tight there. The good thing about my version, aesthetically speaking, is that the cabling meets nicely under the armpit.

The other thing I have to keep in mind is that the original has been loved over the years to a nice relaxed state and I haven’t even blocked the new one yet. Once that is done, the yarn will relax a little.

sweater front 1

sweater front 2

















sweater arm 1

sweater arm 2















sweater back 1

sweater back 2















sweater 2nd arm 1

sweater 2nd arm 2
















3-8-13 016

Cat tummy photo-bomb.

Inner arm seaming.

Inner arm seaming.

3-8-13 013




Almost to Sweater Completion

After a huge break due to school, Christmas, more school, etc, I am finally back on track with the sweater clone. During this break of non-posting, I also worked on a ton of projects for my niece, which will be a post for another day.

Jumping back and forth between projects is proving to be hazardous. On the sweater, when I came back to it, I found that I had lost my hand-written notes for the sleeves. I already had one sleeve done from these notes, so the trick was to get the second sleeve as close to the first as possible. This only really involved re-counting stitches and comparing the first to the second as I went along, but I could tell it came out a little different. I don’t believe it will be different enough to be noticeable after seaming.

My guess about the neck was that it had been picked up from the tops of each of the pieces and worked in the round. To make this easier, I left the tops of the chest pieces and sleeves on stitch holders so I could go back and thread them all onto a circular needle. The neck is also folded over and seamed to the inside to make for a stiff collar.

After joining all pieces in the round.

After joining all pieces in the round.

Showing the collar before seaming.

Showing the collar before seaming.


Next, I had to make the second part of the collar, which is a separate cabled band knit flat and seamed together.

The outer collar.

The outer collar.

Now that these two steps are done, I only need to seam the sides of the sweater body and sleeves and sew the collar! Then, of course, pray that it fits the same way the original does >.<

How the collar will look folded over.

How the collar will look folded over.

Showing the outer collar position.

Showing the outer collar position.

Comparing this sweater to the original, I have to remind myself that the original is very well-loved and stretched out. After blocking, the bamboo will relax and they should be the same size.

It looks so skinny!

It looks so skinny!



Sweater Progress

Here is an update with photos on the progress of the sweater clone.

It looks a little different because once it has been washed, the size will change as the fibers relax.

I think the hardest part so far was figuring out exactly how the original knitter increased at the armpit for the cables. The cables begin off of a line of knit stitches that gradually turns into eight total for a front cabling rope. I tried knit front-back for my increases, but I am thinking the original had lifted increases (which I am not very good at just yet).

A tale of two sweaters.

Having trouble with my lens being too close, so I didn’t quite get the whole length.

Beginning With a Swatch

After yarn shopping, my friend decided on Stitch Nation’s Bamboo Ewe in a shade of gray.

The original sweater is most likely in something like Cascade 220 Super-wash, best we can tell. While 100% wool is springy when knit up, adding the bamboo causes the yarn to relax a little after it’s been washed.

To begin, I knit up two gauge swatches in the sweater’s pattern, on two sizes that I figured already were close to accurate (US 7 & 8). Then I washed them both in cold water & Woolite.

Here are the before and after pictures to show how both swatches relaxed almost an inch after washing.

Size 8 is on the left, size 7 on the right. They are really close to being the same size.

Size 8 on the left and 7 on the right again.

Either way, it looks like size 8 is the closest to the original sweater, which I had already guessed (always good to be certain before you start).


The Sweater Challenge

Been a while since my last update. Apparently grad school + work = too busy to do the things you want.

A few weeks ago, a friend of mine proposed that I take a look at a much-loved sweater of hers to see how I felt about trying to recreate it. At this stage in my knitting, I feel confident enough to take a shot at reverse-engineering a shirt, so we’re going to give it a go.

I apologize for the crappy photos. I need to change the lens on my camera, because this one does not like to get too close.

The original sweater.

Overall, the shirt is knit flat in pieces and seamed together. A basic knit 1, purl 2 ribbing for the body of the shirt. It gets interesting where the sleeves are joined, however, as stitches are added gradually for the process of the braided cable. I’ve figured out that 3 stitches are added on each side, over 3 rows, before the braid starts.

Mattress stitch, seaming the front and back together.

Seaming on the inside of the sleeves. As you can see, the seam is perfectly lining up the rows.

I think the hardest part is going to be figuring out the sleeve measurements. They are beautifully and flawlessly attached around the shoulders, so I’ll need to get the decreases just right.

Looking at the shoulder from the side (sorry, it’s blurry).

Last but not least, the neck line is first folded over and seamed so that the stitches make a horizontal line around the inside of the neck. Then, a separate braided band is stitched around the outside.

Note the line of stitches around the inside seam.

The cowl neck.

That’s the break-down. I’ll keep you posted as soon as I get started. This is going to be an awesome learning experience and I can’t wait to begin!